What Is Skadarlija and How to Best Experience It?

Skadarlija is a historic, cobblestone street in downtown Belgrade, the most famous area for enjoying traditional Serbian cuisine and live music. Located in Skadarska Street, this bohemian quarter sits just a short walk from Republic Square and is a must-visit for every tourist, even those that are in the city for just one day.

Feel the Soul of Serbia in One Street

In the early 1900s, Skadarlija was home to poets, painters, and actors who gathered in kafanas (traditional taverns) to exchange ideas, argue about art, and drink rakija until dawn. Even today, that creative energy lingers in the air.

The street itself is only about 400 meters long, but it’s packed with atmosphere. Uneven cobblestones lead you past lantern-lit terraces, flower-filled balconies, and the soft sound of tamburica music. Unlike many tourist districts that feel staged, Skadarlija has managed to keep its charm alive — partly because locals still come here to celebrate birthdays, anniversaries, and spontaneous nights out.

What to See and Do in Skadarlija

Plan to explore Skadarlija as a pleasant break from your sightseeing tour of downtown Belgrade, either for lunch or dinner. If you come in the afternoon, you will find the street quieter and more relaxed. In the evening, especially on the weekends, expect a lot of people and musicians who stroll from table to table, playing traditional Serbian songs.

Take a slow walk down Skadarska Street to feel the artistic soul of old Belgrade. The cobblestones, lanterns, and live folk music create an unforgettable atmosphere. Once you are ready to sit, choose one of the famous traditional Serbian restaurants that line the street. You can hardly go wrong with any of them, but the most iconic are Tri Šešira (Three Hats) and Dva Jelena (Two Deer), both beloved by locals and visitors for over a century.

In case you’re not sure what to order, here’s my detailed suggestion for a first-time visitor.

Start your meal like a true local with a shot of rakija, Serbia’s national fruit brandy, as an aperitif. The most popular flavors are quince, pear, apricot, and plum (slivovitz). For your first course, try a comforting veal broth (teleća čorba), then move on to a hearty main dish such as Karađorđeva šnicla, a breaded schnitzel rolled and stuffed with creamy kajmak, or ćevapi with kajmak. Pair your meal with a refreshing šopska salad made of tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, onions, and white cheese, or a simple cabbage salad if you visit in winter. And if you like spicy food, order a side of hot pepper in oil (ljuta paprika u ulju).

If you like, wash it all down with a Serbian beer (Lav, Jelen or Zaječarsko), and you’ve had the authentic Balkan lunch.

Local Tips for Visitors

• If you plan to visit during peak hours, especially on weekends in the evening, it may be necessary to make a reservation in advance.
• Remember to tip the musicians, particularly if they play your song. It is a local custom and always appreciated.
• Don’t rush your meal. In Serbia, dining is a social ritual.
• Wear comfortable shoes, as the cobblestones are beautiful but uneven. However, do not be surprised if you see many Serbian women in high heels on Friday and Saturday nights. They always dress elegantly for an evening out, no matter how tricky the street is to walk on.

Belgrade’s Skadarlija and Paris’ Montmartre: Twinned Since 1977

Skadarlija and Montmartre share a symbolic connection as the bohemian hearts of Belgrade and Paris. In 1977, the two quarters officially became twinned, celebrated by a procession of French artists and Belgraders who walked from the Monument of Gratitude to France in Kalemegdan, through Knez Mihailova Street and Republic Square, to Skadarlija.

To commemorate the event, two identical plaques were installed in 1978 — one in Montmartre, on the building of the Free Commune of Montmartre, and one in Belgrade, across from the house of poet Đura Jakšić.

World Celebrities in Skadarlija

In addition to being the gathering place of Serbian artists, Skadarlija has also welcomed many world-famous figures over the years. Among its distinguished guests were Queen Elizabeth II, King Juan Carlos I and Queen Sofía of Spain, George H. W. Bush, Tina Turner, Alfred Hitchcock, Jimi Hendrix, Richard Burton, Anatoly Karpov, Joe Biden, and Sophia Loren.